BIKANER

Hindsight is a wonderful thing. And in hindsight I was perhaps a touch harsh on Pushkar given that the city of Bikaner deserves its rightful place as a city best forgotten, for me at least.

Needless to say that myself, tattooed palm (drawing amused gazes from locals and confused ones from linen clad hippies) and all weren't impressed with yet another bustling city, this time with no real stand out attractions to see other than it providing a way to break up the journey to Jaiselmer west of here.

The best way for me to avoid getting pissed off with it all and trying to eke out an entertaining day of it is to hire a driver for the day - this at least means you see other places whizzing buy from a rickshaw and rely on someone else's local knowledge to put together an interesting day rather than the much maligned and over relied upon Lonely Planet.

The usual score of temples, cemeteries and random ornate objects on roundabouts (was the roundabout there first or the object?) was pleasant enough, as was my driver but having seen to much of the same thing but on a grander scales dulls the senses somewhat and it was through forced gestures that I try to covey genuine enthusiasm when the drivers and locals ask me what I make of their wonderful home city and its attractions.

However it's not all hum drum and repetition here: the fact that Bikaner is an outpost before the Thar desert and that tourists will buy anything means that camels and camel safaris are all the go, especially for those not heading to Jaiselmer.

So then, camel sit is another projectile to add to the list of things to keep an eye out for and avoid: not quite as deadly as the traffic or as nasty as a freshly laid cow surprise but still one to think about when wearing flip flops.

That being said, whilst the camel has an impressive and deafening spit action, it's the local guys that probably pose a more realistic threat to clean feet and clothes.

Whilst you don't see too many smoking in the cities here, it did take me a little while to see that the little sachets on sale practically everywhere are spiced chewing tobacco pouches rather than popping candy sherbet or any other kind of old school sweets, meaning you are never more than 50m away at any time, should you need a quick fix and some bright red teeth.

The end result on the streets is that people are constantly talking with a mouthful of the stuff, talking with a mouthful of liquid and spitting it pretty much any time they're awake...the result is a lovely decoration on the streets that looks like it's been raining jellyfish or a poor job by a mop up crew shortly after a bloody battle had taken place. Grim.

So no camel safari for me here as Jaisalmer beckons where I will have a ride out for a day, in between the spitting and hacking of guide and beast of course...